Finding your next obsession
Finding your next obsession

It's one of the hardest routes on a north face that's not lacking in them: No Siesta on the Grandes Jorasses, 30 pitches of mixed, ice and rock, sometimes dubious, sometimes compact. Opened in 1986 by Jan Porvaznik and Stanislav Glejdura, No Siesta has seen a few repeats that have made it a legend: first solo in 3 days by Patrice Glairon-Rappaz in 2000, first winter and free by Robert Jasper in 2003. For the past ten years, the (rare) repeaters have been setting off on this route in the fall, or winter. Christophe Dumarest knows the north face of the Jorasses well: and for good reason, with this ascent of No Siesta his counter shows twelve routes on the north face! Not far from being a record, no doubt. Roped up with Briton Tom Livingstone, the team climbed No Siesta with two bivouacs. A short and successful film about what remains one of the most famous routes in the Alps.
LUXEN Decision Guide
A real-world choice where the subject itself is the reason to press play, making curiosity and context part of the experience.
Best fit
Who it is for
Best suited to viewers who want to leave a watch with something concrete to think about or learn from.
Commitment
Light commitment · 6m
Use the runtime as a quick check against how much time you have tonight.
Start here
Read the synopsis.
Read the synopsis, then use the documentary and adventure cues to decide whether the tone fits.
Explore the same territory
Cast
Tap a cast member to discover more of their work.